Smoke effects on vineyards

In recent years, wildfires have become an increasingly significant concern for vineyards, particularly in regions prone to dry, hot climates. While wildfires pose an immediate danger to vineyards, the less obvious but equally damaging effect comes from the smoke that lingers in the air. As winemakers grapple with changing environmental conditions, understanding the effects of wildfire smoke on grapevines and the wine they produce has become crucial.

How Does Smoke Affect Grapevines?

When vineyards are exposed to smoke, the grapevines can absorb the airborne compounds known as volatile phenols. These phenols can bind with the sugars in grapes, creating what is referred to as "smoke taint." While the smoke itself doesn’t harm the vine or the appearance of the grapes, these compounds can greatly affect the flavor of the wine made from the affected fruit.

Smoke taint is not immediately noticeable during the grape’s development. The real challenge appears during fermentation, when the volatile phenols are released and begin to impart undesirable flavors into the wine. Wines affected by smoke taint may take on ashy, burnt, or medicinal flavors, which can overpower the wine’s natural fruit characteristics.

Factors That Influence Smoke Taint

Several factors determine how much smoke exposure will affect a vineyard:

1. Duration and Timing of Exposure: Grapes are more vulnerable to smoke taint during their ripening phase, particularly in the weeks leading up to harvest. Prolonged exposure to smoke increases the risk of taint.
2. Grape Varieties: Some grape varieties are more susceptible to smoke taint than others. For example, thinner-skinned grapes like Pinot Noir are often more affected than thicker-skinned varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon.
3. Concentration of Smoke: The density and persistence of the smoke cloud also play a role. Smoke that is closer to the ground or lingers in the area for an extended period can result in higher absorption of phenols by the grapevines.

Detecting and Managing Smoke Taint

Detecting smoke taint early is critical for winemakers, as it helps them decide whether the affected grapes should be harvested or discarded. However, since smoke taint is often masked by other aromas until fermentation, it can be challenging to identify in advance.

To manage the risk of smoke taint, some winemakers are turning to laboratory testing, where grape samples are analyzed for phenol levels before harvest. While this testing provides useful insights, it’s not always foolproof since smoke taint can develop later during fermentation.

Once smoke-tainted grapes are harvested, winemakers have several options to reduce the impact:

1. Blending: Blending affected grapes with unaffected grapes can dilute the smoky flavors, though this is not a complete solution.
2. Reverse Osmosis and Filtration: Some wineries use advanced filtration techniques like reverse osmosis to remove the volatile phenols from the wine. While this can reduce the taint, it may also strip away desirable flavors from the wine.
3. Charcoal Fining: Adding activated charcoal to the wine can help absorb some of the smoke compounds, but this method must be applied carefully to avoid altering the wine’s structure.

Long-Term Impacts and Adaptation

The increasing frequency of wildfires has prompted many winemakers to adapt their vineyard management practices. Some are investing in research to better understand how smoke affects different grape varieties, while others are exploring preventative measures, such as using protective netting to shield grapevines from smoke.

Additionally, the wine industry as a whole is becoming more resilient by collaborating with researchers, developing new techniques, and sharing knowledge on best practices for mitigating the effects of smoke taint. While no solution is foolproof, these efforts offer hope that the industry can continue to produce high-quality wines even in the face of environmental challenges.

Oregon State University (OSU)'s Groundbreaking Efforts to Protect Vineyards from Wildfire Smoke

Recent studies by OSU have shed light on how wildfire smoke impacts vineyards and the steps being taken to manage these effects. This has been a growing concern for wine regions, particularly in the western United States, where wildfires are more frequent and intense.

OSU researchers have been developing innovative solutions to help mitigate the effects of smoke on vineyards. One promising approach involves applying a spray-on coating made from cellulose nanofibers to the grapes while they are still on the vine. This coating has shown potential in blocking harmful compounds like guaiacol and syringol—two phenols responsible for smoky flavors in affected wines. Some formulations of the coating can even capture these compounds, preventing them from being absorbed into the grapes without needing to wash off the coating before harvest. This breakthrough could transform how vineyards protect themselves from smoke exposure.

Additionally, OSU has received substantial grants to further study smoke impacts on vineyards, with the goal of developing real-time smoke monitoring tools and predictive models for assessing smoke risk. They are also testing small-batch fermentation techniques to predict how smoke exposure will affect wine quality. These efforts, which include collaborations with the Oregon Wine Research Institute, are crucial for providing vineyard managers with tools to safeguard their crops from future wildfire events.

 

In conclusion, wildfire smoke presents a complex and growing challenge for vineyards around the world. From altering the flavor of the wine to threatening entire harvests, the effects of smoke taint can be profound. As winemakers confront this issue, they are developing new strategies and technologies to mitigate its impact, ensuring that even in the face of adversity, the artistry of winemaking can thrive. The ongoing research is expected to offer long-term solutions, reducing the economic losses that have plagued the wine industry due to wildfires in recent years.

Next time you raise a glass, consider the resilience and ingenuity behind the wine in your hand, and toast to the ongoing efforts of vineyards to adapt and overcome.

Unlocking Freshness: The Art of Cryofermentation in Winemaking

In the ever-evolving world of winemaking, innovative techniques often redefine how we experience wine. One such method gaining traction is cryofermentation, a process that enhances the aromatic profile and freshness of wines by fermenting grape juice at low temperatures. This technique, particularly favored for white and aromatic grape varieties, is transforming the way winemakers craft delightful and expressive wines.

What is Cryofermentation?

Cryofermentation, also known as cold fermentation or cryomaceration, involves fermenting grape juice at temperatures typically between 5-15°C (41-59°F). By slowing down the fermentation process, winemakers can extract and preserve delicate aromas that would otherwise be lost in traditional fermentation methods. This is especially beneficial for varieties like Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, and Muscat, which thrive under these cooler conditions.

The Cryofermentation Process

1. Harvesting and Cooling: The journey begins with the harvest. Once grapes are picked, they are quickly cooled to maintain freshness and prevent oxidation. This can be achieved by placing the grapes in a refrigerated environment or adding dry ice to lower the temperature swiftly.
2. Crushing and Pressing: After cooling, the grapes are crushed and pressed to separate the juice from the skins. Since cryofermentation is primarily used for white grapes, the juice spends minimal time in contact with the skins to avoid extracting excessive tannins.
3. Cold Fermentation: The juice is transferred to stainless steel tanks and kept at low temperatures during fermentation. Yeasts specifically chosen for cold fermentation are introduced, as they thrive in these cooler environments. The slow fermentation allows for a gradual release of aromatic compounds, leading to wines with heightened flavor complexity.
4. Extended Fermentation Period: The cooler temperatures result in a longer fermentation period, sometimes extending over several weeks. This slow process promotes the development of nuanced flavors, yielding wines with intense fruit, floral, and herbal characteristics.

Advantages of Cryofermentation

• Enhanced Aromatics: By fermenting at low temperatures, winemakers capture and preserve volatile aromatic compounds that might evaporate during warmer fermentation, resulting in wines with intensified fruit, floral, and herbaceous notes.
• Freshness and Balance: Wines produced through cryofermentation often exhibit bright acidity and a well-balanced profile, making them refreshing and lively. This technique is particularly effective at retaining the fresh, zesty character of the grapes.
• Control Over Fermentation: Low-temperature fermentation gives winemakers greater control over the pace of fermentation, allowing precise adjustments to flavor, aroma, and structure.

Potential Drawbacks

While cryofermentation offers numerous benefits, it does require specialized equipment and increased energy consumption to maintain the necessary low temperatures. Additionally, not all yeast strains can thrive in cold conditions, necessitating the careful selection of suitable strains for this process.

Popular Cryofermented Wines

Cryofermentation is widely employed in the production of aromatic whites, as well as some rosés and light-bodied reds where freshness and fruit-forward profiles are paramount. Regions known for crisp whites, such as New Zealand, often apply this technique to Sauvignon Blanc, while Germany leverages it to enhance the bright flavors of Riesling.

In conclusion, cryofermentation is a powerful tool that allows winemakers to create wines with enhanced aromas, vibrant acidity, and a clean, refreshing finish. As the appreciation for aromatic and varietally expressive wines continues to grow, this innovative technique is sure to leave a lasting impression on the wine world. So, the next time you pour a glass of wine, consider the journey it took, and appreciate the craftsmanship that brings such delightful flavors to your table. Cheers!

Ancient Tradition Meets Modern Winemaking: The Art of Aging Wine in Clay Amphorae

As winemakers continuously seek ways to express the unique characteristics of their vineyards, an ancient technique has re-emerged as a modern favorite: aging wine in clay amphorae. Originating thousands of years ago in regions like Georgia, Italy, and Greece, clay amphorae offer a unique and distinctive aging environment that brings out new dimensions in wine. Let’s explore how this ancient vessel influences flavor, texture, and overall wine character in today’s winemaking world.

Unlike stainless steel tanks or oak barrels, clay amphorae provide a semi-porous environment that allows a gentle exchange of oxygen, enhancing the wine’s structure and softening tannins over time. However, unlike oak barrels, amphorae do not impart any additional flavors like vanilla or spice. Instead, they allow the wine’s natural characteristics to shine, showcasing pure fruit flavors and a sense of place that truly reflects the vineyard’s terroir. This minimalist approach appeals to many modern winemakers who seek to produce authentic and expressive wines.

Clay’s natural insulating properties also play a significant role in the aging process. Amphorae maintain a relatively stable temperature, which helps to preserve delicate aromas and flavors during fermentation and aging. In some cases, winemakers bury the amphorae underground, which can further stabilize temperature and humidity, echoing techniques used by ancient winemakers. The result is a wine with a distinct texture—often described as silky or round—that brings a different sensory experience compared to other aging methods.

Winemakers can choose from various types of clay, each imparting subtle differences to the wine. Terracotta, for example, is one of the most popular materials due to its durability and mild mineral influence. Some winemakers experiment with lining the interior of the amphorae with beeswax, which reduces the vessel’s porosity and adds a hint of honeyed complexity to the wine. Others may opt for raw, unlined clay to fully embrace the vessel’s rustic influence.

Amphora-aged wines have gained popularity for their distinctive character and the way they highlight traditional winemaking techniques. Red wines aged in amphorae often exhibit vibrant fruit flavors and well-integrated tannins, while white wines can develop a rich, almost creamy texture, with floral and mineral nuances. Orange wines, produced by fermenting white grapes with their skins, are particularly well-suited to amphorae, resulting in wines with an amber hue and a complex profile of dried fruit, herbs, and spice.

The resurgence of amphora aging reflects a growing appreciation for natural and sustainable winemaking practices. Clay is a renewable resource, and the minimal intervention approach aligns well with organic and biodynamic principles. Winemakers who embrace amphora aging often prioritize environmental stewardship, crafting wines that are both expressive and harmonious with nature.

Whether inspired by a reverence for tradition or a desire to innovate, winemakers across the globe are rediscovering the art of aging wine in clay amphorae. This method not only honors ancient winemaking traditions but also opens up new possibilities for flavor and expression. As you explore wines crafted in amphorae, take a moment to appreciate the rich history and artistry that have shaped these extraordinary bottles. Cheers to the timeless allure of clay and the unique wines it helps create!

From Harvest to Bottle: The Winemaker's Craft in the Cellar

With the grape harvest complete, the vineyard hands off its precious cargo to the cellar, where the transformation from fruit to wine truly begins. The cellar is the heart of the winemaking process, where meticulous decisions and skillful techniques turn ripe grapes into the complex wines we savor. This journey from harvest to bottle is where science meets art, and every step is guided by the winemaker’s vision.

The first task in the cellar is pressing the grapes. For white wines, this process is swift, as the grapes are gently pressed to separate juice from skins, resulting in a light, clear must that’s ready for fermentation. Red wines, on the other hand, are often left to macerate with their skins for a period, allowing time for the extraction of color, tannins, and flavor compounds. This step is crucial for developing the body and depth associated with red wines, and each winemaker chooses the maceration time based on their desired style.

Once the must is prepared, fermentation begins. This stage is where the magic of winemaking happens, as yeast consumes the sugars in the grape juice, converting them into alcohol and releasing aromas that shape the wine’s character. Temperature control is vital during fermentation; white wines typically ferment at cooler temperatures to preserve delicate floral and fruity notes, while reds often ferment warmer to enhance bold flavors and complexity. Some winemakers choose to allow the natural yeasts on the grape skins to start fermentation, which can bring unique, terroir-driven nuances to the wine.

After the primary fermentation, some wines undergo a secondary fermentation, also known as malolactic fermentation (MLF). This process converts the sharper malic acid in the wine into softer lactic acid, resulting in a smoother, creamier texture. MLF is common in red wines and some fuller-bodied white wines, like Chardonnay.

Once fermentation is complete, the wine is transferred to rest and develop. Aging vessels—ranging from stainless steel tanks to oak barrels—play a significant role in the final flavor profile. Stainless steel preserves the wine’s freshness and crispness, ideal for bright, fruit-forward wines. Oak barrels, however, lend additional complexity, imparting flavors like vanilla, spice, and toasted wood. Red wines especially benefit from oak aging, as it helps soften tannins and enhances structure.

The aging period varies greatly depending on the wine style and the winemaker's goals. Some wines, such as Beaujolais Nouveau, are bottled within weeks of harvest to capture their youthful, fruity character. Others, like Bordeaux reds or vintage Champagnes, may age for years, developing depth and elegance that only time can bring.

As the wine reaches its peak, the winemaker decides when it’s ready for bottling. However before bottling, the wine goes through clarification and stabilization to remove any residual solids and prevent unwanted changes over time. This process often involves fining, where substances like egg whites or bentonite clay are added to help bind and settle particles, and filtration, which removes impurities by passing the wine through a fine filter. These essential steps ensure that the wine remains clear and stable, preserving its visual appeal and taste long after it leaves the cellar.

The final step in the wine fermentation cycle is bottling. This is a precise moment, as each bottle captures the culmination of a year’s work in the vineyard and months or even years of patience in the cellar. Bottling marks the end of the journey from vine to glass, but for the wine, it’s just the beginning. Many wines continue to evolve in the bottle, gaining new layers of complexity over time.

With every glass, we’re reminded of the journey that began in the vineyard and continued in the cellar. Each sip tells a story of craftsmanship, tradition, and the beauty of nature’s bounty. Cheers to the winemakers who transform grapes into works of art, and to the wines that bring joy to our tables!

From Vine to Wine: The Art and Celebration of the Fall Harvest

As autumn arrives, the vineyard is primed for one of the most anticipated moments of the year: the harvest. After months of nurturing, protecting, and watching the vines, it’s finally time to gather the fruits of the vineyard’s labor. This stage is not only about timing but also precision and care, as each grape is evaluated for its readiness. Vineyard managers, enologists, and pickers work in unison to ensure the best quality harvest, knowing that every decision at this point directly influences the character and quality of the wine to come.

In the days leading up to the harvest, vineyard teams conduct frequent tests on grape samples to monitor sugar levels, acidity, and phenolic ripeness. Each grape variety has its own ideal parameters, and these qualities must align perfectly to achieve the desired wine style. For white varieties, the goal is often to preserve crisp acidity, while red grapes are typically left on the vine a bit longer to develop full, rich flavors and tannins. This delicate balancing act is one of the reasons why harvest timing can vary even within the same vineyard.

Once the optimal ripeness is reached, the harvest begins. In many traditional vineyards, hand-picking is still the preferred method. Although labor-intensive, it allows for a careful selection of only the ripest clusters and minimizes damage to the grapes. Mechanical harvesting is also used in some areas, offering efficiency and speed, particularly in larger vineyards. Both methods have their advantages, and the choice depends on the vineyard’s size, terrain, and winemaking goals.

After picking, the grapes are quickly transported to the winery to preserve their freshness. For white wines, the grapes are usually pressed immediately to separate the juice from the skins, minimizing tannins and enhancing bright, fruity characteristics. For red wines, the grapes are often destemmed and then left to macerate with their skins, allowing for color and tannin extraction. The temperature, length, and style of fermentation vary depending on the grape variety and the winemaker’s vision.

The fall harvest is not just about picking grapes; it’s also a celebration of the vineyard’s year-long efforts. Many wineries host festivals and gatherings during this season, inviting visitors to witness and even participate in the harvest. This time of year offers a unique glimpse into the art and science of winemaking, and there’s a sense of camaraderie as everyone comes together to bring in the crop.

As the last grapes are harvested and the days grow shorter, the vineyard begins its descent into dormancy, but the work is far from over. In the cellar, the transformation continues as the wine matures, developing complexity and character. While we wait to savor the fruits of this year's harvest, we can appreciate the vineyard’s cycle, which will soon start anew. The fall season is a reminder of the harmony between nature and human hands that brings each bottle of wine to life. Cheers to the harvest season and to all the passion, precision, and patience that go into every glass!

Discovering Dolcetto: The Underdog of Piedmont

In the world of Italian wines, Dolcetto stands as one of the most famous yet least coveted red wines from Piedmont. Often overshadowed by its more prestigious neighbors, Nebbiolo and Barbera, Dolcetto is frequently underestimated and misunderstood. But those who take the time to explore this unique grape variety discover a wine with remarkable charm and character, deeply tied to its place of origin.

A Misunderstood Grape

Dolcetto, whose name translates to "little sweet one" in Italian, is far from a sweet wine. The name might come from the grape’s relative sweetness compared to the very acidic Nebbiolo and Barbera or perhaps refers to the ‘sweet little hills’ (la colina dolce) where it is grown. However, Dolcetto’s reputation as a softer, fleshier wine than its Piedmont rivals often leads it to be seen as an everyday drinking option, unworthy of serious investment. This perception overlooks the grape's true potential, especially when grown and vinified with care.

Dolcetto ripens earlier than Nebbiolo and Barbera, making it a safer bet for farmers. It is often planted on cooler sites—at higher altitudes or in soils that retain less heat—where Nebbiolo might struggle to ripen. These cooler locations help reduce the risk of over-ripening, a common issue with Dolcetto that can lead to wines that are overly alcoholic and fruity. Unfortunately, the grape's placement on these lesser-quality sites contributes to its reputation, as it rarely gets the chance to shine on the best vineyards. Despite this, there are producers who carefully select their harvest dates and manage tannin extraction and oak aging to create complex, age-worthy Dolcetto wines.

Vinification in Stainless Steel

In Italy, Dolcetto is often vinified in stainless steel tanks. This method preserves the grape’s natural fruitiness and bright acidity, creating wines that are ready to drink shortly after bottling. Stainless steel tanks help to maintain the pure expression of Dolcetto, highlighting its vibrant berry flavors and floral notes without the influence of oak. This approach also allows producers to sell young Dolcetto wines quickly, providing an important source of early income while their Nebbiolos continue to age in cask.

The Oak-Aged Exception

While most Dolcetto wines are crafted in a fresh and fruity style, some winemakers choose to age Dolcetto in oak barrels to add complexity. However, the use of heavily oaked barrels is often avoided, as it can overpower Dolcetto’s delicate fruit aromas. Instead, more neutral oak is preferred, allowing the wine’s natural characteristics to shine through. In certain DOCG areas like Dogliani, Diano d’Alba, and Ovada, careful oak aging can result in Dolcetto wines with remarkable depth and the ability to age gracefully.

Where is Dolcetto Grown?

Dolcetto’s spiritual home is in Italy’s Piedmont region, where several appellations are dedicated to the grape. While Dolcetto is also grown in New World regions like Australia and the United States, its identity is firmly rooted in Piedmont. The region has several appellations dedicated exclusively to Dolcetto. The most notable of these have attained the top DOCG classification:

• Dogliani DOCG: Known for producing some of the boldest styles of Dolcetto, Dogliani wines are intensely perfumed with aromas of dark fruit, coffee, and cacao. This region is believed to be the birthplace of Dolcetto, with a rich history dating back to Roman times. Dogliani DOCG exclusively permits Dolcetto, ensuring that even the best sites are devoted to this grape.
• Dolcetto di Diano d’Alba DOCG: This region is known for concentrated Dolcetto wines, where oak aging is sometimes used to enhance richness and depth.
• Dolcetto di Ovada Superiore DOCG: In Ovada, the "Superiore" designation indicates a higher level of quality, often involving oak aging to produce a more structured and complex profile.

Other notable Dolcetto DOCs in Piedmont include Acqui, Alba, Asti, Langhe Monregalesi, and the broader Langhe region.

In total Piedmont accounts for about 98 percent of the Italian total of around 6,000 hectares (15,000 acres) of Dolcetto. Global figures do not vary from this by much. Nevertheless, the grape is permitted for use in various DOCs and dozens of IGPs around Italy (there are no IGPs in Piedmont). In Liguria, Piedmont's southern neighbor, the variety goes by the name Ormeasco, and is used to make Ormeasco di Pornassio. The wine here is brighter in color, with sweeter tannins and intense aromatics. The vineyards, ranging from 400m to 800m above sea level, produce wines with a distinctive character influenced by the altitude.

What Does Dolcetto Taste Like?

Dolcetto wines typically display a medium ruby color with violet or purple hues. On the nose, you can expect intense aromas of blackberry, blackcurrant, white pepper, mint, leather. On the palate, Dolcetto is dry, with medium to high acidity, medium to firm tannins, rich mouthfeel (for a wine with 13.5% ABV and no oak), and flavors of tart cherries, licorice, crushed flowers and almond, which is the trademark of any Dolcetto Wine. The finish is often moderate in length, leaving a lingering impression of the wine’s rich fruit and subtle spice.

Why Should You Drink Dolcetto?

Dolcetto is like a secret weapon for sommeliers. It’s a red wine that doesn’t overwhelm with power or assertiveness but is structured by balanced tannins and fresh berry fruit, making it incredibly food-friendly. Dolcetto pairs beautifully with pizza, pasta, mushrooms, and a variety of meats, from simple charcuterie to grilled steak. Serving it slightly chilled—after a 20-minute stint in the refrigerator—allows its fruit and floral notes to shine. And unlike some wines that require years of aging, most Dolcetto is ready to be enjoyed immediately.

Looking for the Best Dolcetto Wines & Terroirs

Despite its underdog status, Dolcetto can produce exceptional wines, especially when grown in specific crus where producers take great care in the vineyard and cellar. These high-quality Dolcetto wines are a well-kept secret among locals, who appreciate their complexity, intensity, and excellent value.

So next time you’re exploring Italian wines, don’t overlook Dolcetto. It may just surprise you with its charm, versatility, and the unique expression of Piedmont’s terroir.

August 18th: National Pinot Noir Day

Every wine enthusiast knows that there are certain grapes that command a special reverence, and Pinot Noir is undoubtedly one of them. Elegant, complex, and beloved by connoisseurs worldwide, Pinot Noir holds a place of distinction in the world of wine. So, it's only fitting that such a noble grape has its own day of celebration – Pinot Noir National Day. Let's raise our glasses and delve into the allure of this remarkable varietal.

The Origins of Pinot Noir:
Pinot Noir's origins can be traced back to the Burgundy region of France, where it has been cultivated for centuries. Revered for its ability to express terroir with finesse, Pinot Noir is notoriously finicky to grow but rewards vintners with wines of unparalleled complexity when tended to with care.

Pinot Noir's Influence:
While Burgundy remains the spiritual home of Pinot Noir, this grape has found success in wine regions around the world. From the cool climates of Oregon's Willamette Valley to the rugged landscapes of New Zealand's Central Otago, Pinot Noir thrives in diverse terroirs, each imparting its own unique characteristics to the wine.

Tasting Notes:
Pinot Noir is often described as the "heartbreak grape" due to its delicate nature and the challenges it presents to winemakers. However, when crafted skillfully, Pinot Noir offers a sensory experience like no other. With its enticing aromas of ripe red berries, earthy undertones, and silky texture, Pinot Noir seduces the palate with every sip.

Food Pairings:
One of the joys of Pinot Noir is its versatility when it comes to food pairings. Its bright acidity and silky tannins make it a natural companion to a wide range of dishes. From classic pairings like roasted duck and wild mushroom risotto to unexpected matches like grilled salmon and even certain types of sushi, Pinot Noir's ability to complement and enhance flavors is unmatched.

Celebrating Pinot Noir National Day:
On Pinot Noir National Day, wine lovers around the world come together to celebrate this iconic grape. Whether you're savoring a bottle of aged Burgundy or exploring a new vintage from an up-and-coming wine region, take this opportunity to toast to the magic of Pinot Noir and the artistry of the winemakers who bring it to life.

In conclusion, Pinot Noir National Day is more than just a day on the calendar – it's a celebration of craftsmanship, terroir, and the enduring allure of one of the world's most beloved grapes. So, whether you're a seasoned oenophile or just discovering the joys of wine, raise a glass to Pinot Noir and let its elegance and complexity inspire you to explore the world of wine further. Cheers!

The Evolution of Wine Designations: From Ancient Amphorae to Modern DOCG

 

Wine designations, also known as denominations of origin, are a cornerstone of the wine industry, ensuring quality, authenticity, and a sense of place. These designations protect the names of wines based on their geographic origin, much like the appellation systems in France and Italy. Established in Italy in 1963 with the introduction of Law 930, the concept of denominazione di origine controllata (DOC) and later denominazione di origine controllata e garantita (DOCG) has been pivotal in preserving the integrity and heritage of Italian wines. These systems ensure that wines labeled with specific regional names adhere to strict production standards, highlighting the unique characteristics imparted by their terroir.

A few years after the fiftieth anniversary of the first Italian law protecting wine designations of origin (D.P.R. 930/1963), I am reintroducing the interesting contribution on the topic written by Professor Mario Fregoni as an introduction to the volume "50 DOC – 50 years of designations of origin protecting Italian wine," published by Ci.Vin in 2013.

On ancient wine amphorae, the name of the production place, the owner, and the vintage were inscribed. The use of the geographical name to indicate the wine dates back to ancient civilizations. In fact, the genius loci of various Egyptian, Armenian, Syrian, Lebanese, Israeli, Greek, and many Roman crus (over 60 geographic names such as the famous Falernum, Cecubo, Albano, Mamertino, Pompeiano, Pucino, etc.) are known. This tradition extended to Burgundy (in 1000, the Benedictines classified the current crus), mentioned by Pope Paul III Farnese in 1549, whose sommelier Sante Lancerio illustrated the wines the Pope desired in different circumstances. A precious and precise work on the subject is the encyclopedic work of Bacci (1596), the Pope's doctor, which lists 44 geographical denominations used to indicate wines. The first official legal recognitions came with the decrees of Hungarian Tokay (1700), Chianti (the current Classico area) (1713), Marsala (1773), and the various classes of Bordeaux crus (1885). The first state law was approved by France in 1935, although in this country, several denominations were already in use on a regional scale. Italy started with typical wines in 1937 (but they were a disappointment) and then approved the first law on controlled and guaranteed denominations of origin (DOC and DOCG) in 1963, with number 930.

When did the use of varietal names to indicate wine begin in Italy? This choice can be placed towards the end of the 1600s, the beginning of the 1700s. It is true that the Romans distinguished the "aminee" (neutral) and the "apiane" (aromatic, like Moscati) and some others, but they did not use the names to "label" the wines, as the varieties were mixed in the vineyards, even with wild grapes (Vitis Sylvestris), a tradition that certainly continued into the 1700s according to bibliographic sources. The wines were the result of blending multi-varietal populations and wild grapes. Historically, therefore, the terroir, that is, the production environment and the man who governed it, was of greater importance. Modern denominations (VQPRD, now DOP) have these historical bases. Nevertheless, in recent centuries, particularly in Italy and the New World, the custom of naming wine after the variety has taken over. A worldwide survey by the author revealed that about 20% of international wines bear only the variety name (New World, but recently also allowed by the European Union); about 10% of the world's wines are labeled with only the geographic name (in Europe, such as Barolo, Chianti, various Bordeaux Chateaux, Burgundy crus, etc.); finally, 70% of wines are labeled jointly with the variety and the production area name (in Italy and other European countries). We must ask ourselves which line to follow. The valorization and protection of the name of the terroir or the varietal? It should be noted that DOPs are protected in the EU and many European countries, while in other competing or consumer countries, geographic origin designations can be registered as trademarks. Conversely, the variety is stateless and can be cultivated worldwide, using its name on the bottle. In the 1900s, world viticulture was occupied by a small number of Northern European varieties, especially French (called international), while thousands of native varieties of Eastern origin were lost because they were not cultivated. A sensory analysis by a tasting panel revealed that it is difficult to recognize the variety used for a wine, and the same happens for consumers, while the terroir is easier to identify. Moreover, the terroir is inimitable because it is not transferable, while the variety can be cultivated in all countries of the world, so much so that the concentration on a few international varieties (e.g., Bordeaux varieties) is producing many similar wines globally (widespread isosensoriality), especially with the repetition of modern winemaking technology across all continents. Therefore, we must focus on terroir wines endowed with the typicality impressed by environmental factors (soil and climate). There are quality varieties that give highly typical wines only in great terroirs: e.g., Sangiovese in Montalcino, Nebbiolo in Barolo, and so on. The terroir should be proposed not only through the geographical name of large territories but especially with the names of the "additional geographical mentions," represented by microzones or well-known estates. Recent examples include Barolo, which has officially introduced about 180 small geographic names into its regulations, while Barbaresco has introduced about half. Without modifying the regulations, the names of estate toponyms associated with the term "vineyard" can be included on the label. But it is clear that DOPs must protect and ensure quality and sensory typicality, prerogatives that do not always coincide. The former is now widespread because viticultural and winemaking technology allows avoiding defects and achieving good standards worldwide, while typicality is more difficult to obtain because it is the result of the interaction between the valuable variety and the environment (soil and climate), i.e., a class terroir that provides rare, inimitable wines.

Italian laws on denominations of origin: 1963, 1992, 2010
Law 930/63 was a major turning point in the Italian viticultural landscape, which at that time was marked by much fragmentation of farms, confusion in viticultural management, and widespread fraud that multiplied wine production, reaching 80 million hectoliters and consequently leading to the wine war with France, to which we exported 7 million hectoliters of blending wines, replacing those from North African countries that had become independent from France. Law 930/63 laid the foundations for denominations of origin, imitating French legislation on AOCs. It introduced the concept of a delimited and intangible production area for each DOC, the production regulations with all the rules on varieties, allowed viticultural techniques, and winemaking techniques. It provided for two levels of denomination of origin, namely DOC and DOCG, with the possibility of opting out of the "G" to declare everything in the underlying DOC in case of unfavorable vintages. About twenty years after 930/63, then Minister of Agriculture Mannino entrusted the author, then President of the National Committee for Designations of Origin, with the task of renewing and updating the existing law. The first innovation concerned the definition of DOC, missing in 930/63, which still contemplates two essential principles: the quality and notoriety of the wine, obviously produced in a delimited geographical area that bears its name. The other proposal concerned the expansion of the levels of denominations of origin: above DOCG, microzones were introduced, and at the top, the "vineyard" aggregated to the name of the cadastral toponym. Below DOC, IGTs (typical geographical indications) were envisaged, in turn placed at a level higher than table wines without a geographical name. Thus, the DOC pyramid was born. Among the various categories of wines bearing the geographical name, the harvest choice was expanded and perfected, both for qualitative vintage purposes and commercial purposes. Essentially, the high geographical levels of the DOC pyramid configure the French strategy of Burgundy crus and Bordeaux Chateaux. The "additional geographical mentions," introduced in the regulations of Barolo and Barbaresco, are nothing more than crus. The new law was presented by Minister of Agriculture Goria and, after approval by both houses of Parliament, was numbered 164/92, and a well-known journalist wrote that it "spoke Piacentino," alluding to the author. Subsequently, it was presented in other countries, so much so that Argentina approved one very similar. For completeness, it should be recalled the recent 2010 law, which did not bring conceptual innovations but only improvements on the use of the different levels of denominations of origin, already provided for in 164/92 and thus in the DOC pyramid; thus, the microzones were renamed additional geographical mentions. The concrete contribution of the first two laws on denominations of origin can be inferred from the following data: the percentage of DOC+DOCG at the time of 930/63 was around 10%, while in 2011 it rose to 35%, followed by IGTs at 26%, which 930/63 did not contemplate. Therefore, 61% of Italian production carries a geographical name of origin, that is, the name of a terroir, usually of large area. The recognized DOCs and DOCGs are 403, and the IGTs amount to 118. It is emphasized that the denominations of origin have strengthened our exports, representing 51% of Italian wine production, amounting to a substantial 4.4 billion euros, the largest voice of Italian food exports and essential for our GDP. Further appreciation of the effect of our legislation on denominations of origin can be deduced from the export prices: €3.90 per bottle for DOC-DOCG; €2.50 per bottle for IGT; €1.42 for table wine without geographical indications, and €0.47 for bulk wine. Better prices are obtained by France, Germany, Spain, and other countries, particularly for wines with denominations of origin or geographical indications. The world shows trust in regulated terroir wines, and consequently, we must focus on valuing wines bearing a geographical name, even if the EU has erroneously.

History of Tuscan Wine

Starting this July, on every third Wednesday of the month, I will be hosting a wine seminar where I'll delve into the characteristics of a specific wine region, followed by a tasting of three wines from that area. On Wednesday, July 24th, we will kick off this exciting series with a focus on Tuscany. To make our meeting even more interesting, I've been digging into the rich history of Tuscan wine, and I’ve decided to summarize my findings in this blog.

The Etruscan Origins and Roman Influence

The history of Tuscan wine begins with the Etruscans, who inhabited the region around 800 BCE. They were among the first to cultivate grapevines and produce wine in Tuscany. Archaeological evidence shows that the Etruscans traded their wine throughout the Mediterranean, indicating its early importance.

The Romans, who conquered the Etruscans around the 3rd century BCE, continued and expanded the viticultural practices. They introduced advanced techniques in viticulture and winemaking. Roman influence helped spread Tuscan wines throughout the Roman Empire, increasing their reputation and importance.

Evolution Through the Middle Ages and Renaissance

After the fall of the Roman Empire, winemaking in Tuscany experienced a decline but never disappeared. Monasteries played a crucial role in preserving viticultural knowledge and practices. The Church's influence ensured that wine production continued, primarily for sacramental purposes.

The Renaissance, beginning in the 14th century, brought a cultural and economic revival to Tuscany. Wealthy families, such as the Medicis, invested in the land and improved agricultural practices. This period saw the establishment of many of the vineyards that are still renowned today. The Renaissance also brought about a greater appreciation for quality wine, leading to advancements in winemaking techniques.

Modern Developments and the Rise of Super Tuscans

In the late 19th century, the phylloxera epidemic devastated European vineyards, including some areas in Tuscany. The region recovered by grafting European vines onto resistant American rootstocks, which revitalized the wine industry.

The 20th century saw the introduction of the Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOC) in 1963 and Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG) in 1980. These regulations helped standardize and protect the quality of Tuscan wines, leading to a resurgence in their global reputation.

In the 1970s, a new category of wine, known as Super Tuscans, emerged. Frustrated by the restrictive DOC regulations, innovative winemakers began producing high-quality wines using non-traditional grape varieties and blends. Notable examples include Sassicaia, Tignanello, and Ornellaia. These wines, often using international grape varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, gained international acclaim and changed the landscape of Tuscan winemaking.

Today, Tuscany is a dynamic wine region that balances tradition with innovation. Organic and biodynamic farming practices are becoming more prevalent, and there is a continuous focus on quality improvement. Tuscan wines are celebrated worldwide, and the region remains a beacon of Italian winemaking excellence.

By understanding the rich history of Tuscan wine, we can appreciate the dedication and passion that have shaped its development over the centuries. From ancient Etruscan roots to modern-day innovations, Tuscan wine continues to captivate and inspire wine lovers around the globe.

What happen during summer in the vineyard?

As summer unfolds, vineyards across the globe are abuzz with activity. The delicate buds that appeared in spring have now transformed into clusters of grapes, undergoing a remarkable journey. Let's explore the fascinating changes that take place in the vineyard during the summer months and understand the vital processes that lead to a successful harvest.

In early spring, vines awaken from their winter dormancy, and tiny buds begin to swell and burst. These buds are the promise of the vineyard's future crop. By the time summer arrives, these buds have developed into small, green clusters of grapes, known as berries. This stage is crucial as it sets the foundation for the quality and quantity of the harvest.

One of the most critical phases in the vineyard's lifecycle is flowering, which typically occurs in late spring to early summer. Tiny flowers appear on the grape clusters, and successful pollination leads to fruit set, where these flowers develop into small, green berries. The weather during this period is vital; warm, dry conditions are ideal for a good fruit set, while rain or extreme temperatures can impact the number of grapes that form.

As summer progresses, the grape berries grow in size, accumulating sugars and developing their unique flavors. This period of rapid growth is supported by the vine's lush, green canopy of leaves, which photosynthesize sunlight into energy. By mid-summer, a significant change known as veraison occurs. This is when the berries start to change color, signaling the onset of ripening. Green grapes begin to turn golden yellow, while red varieties shift to shades of purple and red.

During the summer, vineyard managers carefully tend to the vines to ensure optimal grape development. Canopy management involves trimming excess leaves and shoots to improve air circulation and sunlight exposure. This practice reduces the risk of disease and helps the grapes ripen evenly. Additionally, controlling the vine's growth ensures that the plant's energy is focused on developing high-quality fruit rather than excessive foliage.

Maintaining the health of the vines is paramount during the summer months. Vineyard managers regularly monitor for pests and diseases, which can quickly spread and damage the crop. Sustainable practices, such as integrated pest management and organic treatments, are often employed to protect the vines and the environment. Irrigation is also carefully managed, especially in regions with limited rainfall, to ensure the vines receive adequate water without causing stress.

As summer wanes and the grapes continue to ripen, vineyard managers begin preparations for the upcoming harvest. This involves testing grape samples to monitor sugar levels, acidity, and flavor development. The timing of the harvest is crucial; picking too early can result in underripe grapes, while waiting too long can lead to overripe, less desirable fruit. The goal is to harvest at the peak of ripeness to produce the best possible wine.

In conclusion, summer in the vineyard is a time of transformation and intense activity. The journey from spring buds to ripening grapes is a testament to the careful balance of nature and human intervention. Understanding these processes deepens our appreciation for the wines we enjoy and the dedication of the people who bring them to our tables. As you sip your next glass of wine, take a moment to savor the journey of the grapes from the vineyard to your glass. Cheers!